There only have a few sport chronographs in the top tier of luxury watches that are capable of being used as a both dressy and casual counterpart. The Nautilus and Aquanaut chronographs top that list, flanked by the Royal Oak of course, and in light of the growing demand and prices of the steel Rolex Daytona, it also acquires a spot in the category. Nevertheless, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph has always been less desirable, which is a real pity. Its design and execution from dial to buckle are extraordinary, its aesthetics unique and thoughtful; yet somehow it never developed the same reputation as the others.
For those who prefer to a well-made but rare in the wild, you’re lucky now, the second hand models of the Overseas – especially the previous reference 49150 that released in 2004 – seem to be selling at 10-13k USD. By comparison, the non-Offshore Royal Oak Chronographs will cost you 18k USD, and not to mention that Nautilus Chronographs can’t be had under $75k these days. That’s another story.
The Case
So what special about fake rolex watches? Before we get to its interior mechanism, there’s quite a lot to tal about its overall appearance. The specially notched bezel design takes from its predecessor, the 222 was released back in 1977 to celebrate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. The polishing of its bezel is nicely complemented by the knurling and polishing on its screw-down crown and screw down pushers, which are all in contrast to the brushed finish of the forward facing surfaces of its case and bracelet.
Speaking of its bracelet, the Overseas bracelet is one of my favorites to this day. Its links are designed like half of the Maltese cross (which is Vacheron’s brand logo), and use unique bevels to create special angles on what would otherwise be a reversed deviation of the Rolex Oyster bracelet. In the latest version, a micro adjustment is fitted into its clasp, though this isn’t the case with the ref. 49150. It’s commonly agreed that the integrated bracelet on the Overseas Chronograph is one of the more comfortable out there.
The Dial
The dial of the ref. 49150 is another factor that makes the replica watch even more desirable. Unlike the Royal Oak’s “Tapisserie” pattern, the geometric guillochage on the dial of the Overseas Chronograph is more delicate and traditional in nature. Take a close look at the three dimensional texture, the pattern-work isn’t far off of the more traditional, “clou de paris” guilloche pattern, though more exquisite in execution.
Its sub-dials are recessed below this textured surface layer, but not the same size. At first this detail threw me. In light of the symmetry created by the use of a big date at 12 o’clock, I have no idea why Vacheron’s designers would do this (I still don’t have an answer to that), but over time I start to appreciate this unique design.