Although the Rolex Submariner has a rich history, the 1680 and subsequent models that followed remain highly desirable for those looking for something more daily-wear friendly. However, each iterations of the model has its pros and cons for those wanting a daily-wear Submariner that isn’t fresh out of HQ, so we thought we would take some time to examine the major difference that separates one generation from the next.
Dating back to the date of the first Rolex 1680 is a bit of a pain in the butt, though it’s generally agreed that the first of its kind appeared in the late 1960’s. Of the key distinguishing features separating it from its predecessor, the replica Rolex Submariner 5513, the addition of a date window and a magnifying lens to its acrylic crystal are by far the most notable..
Early examples, famous as the “Red Submariner”, are by far the most collectible. In total seven dial variations of the Rolex Red Submariner 1680 were produced with subtle differences in typeface, the positioning of meters versus feet of depth rating, and other intricacies, but across the board that rare and subtle touch of red on the dial makes these variants much more desirable amongst collectors.
The 16800 is considered the best of both worlds as far as striking a balance of vintage charm in some aspects. Known as the “transitional Sub” in most circles, the new model arrived in 1978 to replace its aforementioned sibling. The 16800 fake model retains the matte dial and painted indices of its predecessors, paired with desired modern accouterments, including a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and an updated caliber.
So far prices of the 16800 rolex Submariners have stayed reasonably approachable compared to the older subs on the market, and with roughly a decade in production they are fairly easy to come by in reasonable shape. What’s mainly appealing about hunting for your own 16800 is the broad range of aging seen on the many examples on the market.
The rare and glossy-dialed Subs were only manufactured from mid-1988 through into 1989, and at the end of the day their only real differentiating factor is that their release marked the Rolex’s integration of 904L stainless steel rather than the more conventional 316L they had used previously—a steel that is still used to this day by 99% of other replica watches brands in the marketplace. The fake Rolex had already begun using the gloss dials and raised indices you see here on the 168000 by the tail end of production of its double zero sibling. It’s safe to speculate that this limited-production scarcity will see values of the triple zero rise in the years to come, however for the time being it’s a rock-solid example of a classic Submariner that’s engineered at its core to be a practical, wearable, and above all durable timepiece.