Rolex revised its Submariner collection for 2020 and unleashed extraordinary demand for its Oyster model with a green bezel. Our test from the WatchTime archives looks at this latest version, with its revised case and new movement, to see if it lives up to the hype.
Initially, the dimensions were the source of some confusion. The specifications for the new Rolex model show a larger case at 41mm instead of 40mm. However, when the two models are placed side-by-side, the new replica watch almost looks smaller. In fact, the Oyster case has only increased by a very small amount, from 40.3 mm to 40.8 mm. However, the smaller lugs make it even more streamlined than its predecessor. The Oyster bracelet now measures 21 mm between the lugs instead of 20 mm, and the clasp is 1 mm wider.  
All in all, in the absence of a direct comparison, the difference is barely noticeable, except for the more refined lugs. Apart from the slightly wider hands, there are very few changes to the dial, except in the case of the Submariner LV, which, like our test watch, is a nod to reference number 126610LV, which stands for lunette verte (green bezel).

Also new is the small crown between the words “Swiss Made” on the dial, which, as we have seen in other Rolex models, represents the newer 3235 movement. Rolex has changed more than 90% of the components of its 3135 movement and has been granted 14 patents related to its development. In particular, shock absorption and reliability have been improved. Thanks to a new ball-bearing rotor, winding is more efficient and the power reserve can be built up more quickly. Some people may now be able to hear the rotor, whereas before it was silent.
The most important factor for the wearer is the increase in power reserve, from 48 hours to 70 hours. Rolex has achieved this increase through thinner barrel walls, which allow for longer mainsprings, and through the innovative Chronergy escapement, which increases the efficiency of the Swiss lever escapement by 15%. This is due to the modified geometry and skeletonized form, which reduces its weight.
Our copy watch did not quite reach these values on our Witschi chronometer. It was measured in every position and showed an average rate of -2.3 seconds per day. However, the individual positions remained close to the rate, between -1 and -4 seconds per day.

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For the first decade of its existence, the replica Rolex Sea-Dweller bore both the “Sea-Dweller” and “Submariner 2000″ names in red text on its dial face. However, in 1977, Rolex released a new Sea-Dweller – still with the reference number 1665 – that completely abandoned the red text lines and the Submariner name in favor of an entirely black and white dial.
To match the latest dial of the “Great White” Sea-Dweller, the case back of the new generation 1665 features a slightly more elaborate engraving, with the Rolex name curving along the curves of the recesses rather than appearing in a straight line. Aside from the subtle updates to the dial and case back, the new generation of Model 1665 Sea-Dweller watches are very similar to those that came before them with red text; however, the updates on the “Great White” represent much more than the actual changes to the watch itself.  
The Rolex Sea-Dweller started out as a submariner, modified to be more water-resistant to withstand the deeper depths below the ocean’s surface. For the first decade of its existence, the Sea-Dweller also bore the Submariner name on its dial, so it was unclear whether the Sea-Dweller was a separate watch line or simply a special version of the Submariner, designed for more strictly specialized use.
To better understand the difference between these two replica watches, the Submariner has a depth rating of up to 200 meters/660 feet in this era, which is remarkable in itself. This depth rating would eventually increase to an impressive 1220 meters/4,000 feet, a depth that is still maintained by the contemporary Sea-Dweller watches currently produced by Rolex.
While the elimination of the red lettering brought about a fairly obvious visual change, the removal of the Submariner name was the most important change that accompanied the arrival of the “Great White” in 1665. The absence of the Submariner name on the dial was a clear signal to the public that copy Rolex intended to keep the Sea-Dweller as its own watch line, separate from the Submariner, and to fill a slightly different niche in its lineup of highly capable professional dive watches.
If you are familiar with vintage watch collecting, you understand that even the smallest details of a watch are important, not the least of which is the dial. Depending on their rarity, the dial types can be valued for Ref. 1665 on the open market. Although it is not the rarest Sea-Dweller watch Rolex has ever produced, the Ref. 1665 “Great White” has helped make the Rolex Sea-Dweller its unique line of highly specialized, ultra-water-resistant tool watches – independent of the Submariner and designed specifically for the rigorous demands of saturation diving and professional use.

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Your first look should be to see if the watch is a full match, and then consider zooming in on the details! If a part of the watch, such as the case, shows obvious signs of wear, this should match the condition of the rest of the watch, such as the dial, inlay, etc. If something is incorrect, from the outside, then this is a clear sign that the watch has been repaired or messed up to hide a flaw in its authenticity and originality. To make your evaluation easier, I have compiled a list of things to look for when analyzing a vintage replica Rolex watch. The list is broken down by case, dial, and bezel sections.
Let’s take a closer look at the case to determine the originality of the watch and its condition. Many factors may affect whether the case is still in its original condition and what has been done to it through wear and/or repair. The challenge in looking at the case and comparing it to the rest of the watch is to spot any differences in the story the watch may be telling you. My experience over the years has taught me that even a well-worn watch will retain its original shape. Obviously, there will be signs of wear around the edges, but overall, the shape should still be OK.
If you are not sure why a particular watch looks unpolished, look closely at the matte part of the watch with a suitable magnifying glass. The matte part will tell you whether the watch has been polished or not. Generally speaking, from a collector’s point of view, I am more interested in whether a watch is original than whether the case is unpolished. Let’s state once and for all that I have seen many times online about unpolished replica watches when they clearly are not, and that is a concern.  
Unused watch bands are hard and you need to bend the links. When you remove the strap with a push pin before polishing, it will always leave marks on the case. That’s why the lugs are usually sealed with tape before the strap is removed. But in any case, you can see on the inside of the lugs where the pushpin entered the hole and you will see the scratch left by the pushpin. One sign of a polished service is the drilled lug holes, or better yet, the sharpness of the edges of the lug holes. This is because once polished, these lug holes lose their original sharp edges.
Perhaps because of this rarity and value, beveled cases are particularly popular among antique collectors. Beveling is for aesthetic purposes only. Each model has its own bevel shape, and the GMT-Master’s bevel is somewhat smaller than the Submariner’s. This has to do with the fact that the Submariner model is thicker and more water-resistant than the GMT-Master, and the Submariner has a larger winding crown.
There are some professional polishers who will take the entire watch apart when trying to polish it back to fake Rolex standards. This will inevitably result in a loss of material unless the polishing is done very lightly. This is not easy as it requires highly developed polishing skills as you only get one chance. If you do it wrong, the polishing transition will be clearly visible. But if you do it right, it will be hard to detect with the naked eye.

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In most other respects, reference 1680 is virtually identical to reference 5512/5513. Reference 1680 is almost identical to reference 5512/5513. However, it brings a date feature to the series for the first time. For many critics, this relatively minor feature marked the end of the Submariner line as a dedicated swiss replica watch and heralded its entrance into the realm of status symbols. Critics argued that true divers did not need a watch that told them the date of the month.
Despite the objections, the Rolex Submariner has always been elegantly styled and more than just a diving tool. Its refined simplicity matches everything from T-shirts and jeans to tailored tuxedos – just ask the greatest advertisement for any timepiece, James Bond. Starting with Connery in Dr. No in 1962, Agent 007 wore the Submariner in nine appearances, and the watch matched everything from diving suits to dinner suits.  
In fact, far more non-divers have always bought Submariner than divers, and this is true of most of the brand’s models. Nowadays, for example, you also don’t see as many replica Rolex Daytona watches in the paddock of the average race track, nor do you see Explorer watches on the summit of Mount Everest.
As for Rolex, the brand decided to wholeheartedly embrace the status symbol label with the arrival of the ref. 1680. In addition to being the first Submariner with a date complication, it was also the first watch to be made in 18-carat yellow gold. It was also the first watch to feature a blue dial and bezel option, representing its first appearance in a model other than all black.
Rolex has poured its heart and soul into the Ref. 1680 since its arrival. 1680, fake Rolex has poured far more variety into the Submariner Date than the No-Date models, gifting them with a range of new metal combinations and different colorways. As always, the No-Date Submariner remains a unique stainless steel creation that remains popular with purists.

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